FAQs & Tips
We have listed some frequently asked questions along with some helpful tips to help you establish and keep your turf in top condition. If you can't find an answer to your question please feel free to contact us.
What soil should I lay my turf on?
All soils contain pathogens and weed seeds so if you cant scrape up enough soil from your own block then it can be a good idea to to use minus one deco as it is sterile, weed free and easy to spread. Alternatively use a good garden soil containing a well composted manure and no large pieces of bark or wood. Remember to leave the soil level below the level of your paths and the weep holes in the bricks. A good soil wetter should be used on your new soil as it often repels water (hydrophobic).
How do I choose the right turf?
Many people have been caught by selecting the wrong grass. There is no one grass that is best for all situations. There are many factors to take into consideration. Is shade an issue? Is it a high traffic situation? Is salt a problem? Is water readily available? How fast does it grow? Is price an issue? The more of these questions you can answer the better we can guide you to the right choice for your lawn. Many people just say they want "A grade couch" but dont realise that this covers dozens of different cultivars all with different growth habits, disease, pest and chemical resistance. Remember there is no one "BEST" grass for everyone.
Fertiliser, what, when and how much?
This will depend on the variety of grass you have chosen, the quality of your soil and how you want your lawn to look. We recommend you use a good organic based fertiliser. Any fertiliser using a composted manure or blood and bone or fish will be fine. Where chemical fertilisers will give you that instant flush of green and rapid growth they wont make your grass healthy. An organic fertiliser will be slower to react but will give a healthy lawn that is resistant to attack from pests and disease. An organic based fertiliser will also feed the microbes in the soil and improve your soil into the future. We use and recommend "Organic Link" fertiliser which has the added benefit of neem to suppress lawn grubs. You can spread fertiliser in spring through autumn but it is a good idea to give it a rest in winter. If you want your lawn to look good through the winter it is important to feed it in autumn so that it is green before the cold weather hits.
How do I control weeds in my lawn?
One of the first things to do is check your pH as some weeds only appear in acid or alkaline soils. pH from 6.5 to 7.0 is ideal. Some weeds like sedges (nut grass, mullumbimbi) are easily taken care of with expensive chemicals which can be sprayed over the whole lawn without harming it. Other weeds will need to be controlled in a different manner depending on the variety of grass you have. It is important to check the label to see if a chemical is safe to use on your particular lawn. A safe method to use on all weeds is to mix Glyphosate in a small container according to the label and then use a paint brush to paint the offending weeds. It helps to add a little food colouring to the mix so that you can see where you have been. Remember this will kill anything it touches so only paint the stuff you want to get rid of.
Should I use the grass catcher?
We don't believe so, especially with the mulching mowers available today. When you use a mulching mower the clippings are smashed up and pushed down into the grass. The clippings then break down and feed your lawn again. If you are catching the clippings and throwing them in the bin you are discarding all of this good fertiliser and losing useful organic matter.
When should I spray for lawn grubs?
Never is the short answer. The first thing you need to do is understand the grub life cycle. The tiny grubs barely visible to the naked eye hatch with a tiny web and are carried on the wind, sometimes hundreds of kilometres. These grubs land on your lawn and start feeding. You normally don’t notice the damage until the grubs are nearly full size and finished eating. At this point the grub burrows into the soil and make its cocoon from which hatches a small grey moth that lays those little furry patches of eggs you see under the eaves of your house. Then the cycle starts again. Most people see the little red and blue wasps flying around their lawn and decide it is time to spray for lawn grubs. The problem here is that the wasps actually sting the grub cocoon and lay their eggs inside thus killing the grub and breaking the cycle. At this point the grubs have finished eating so are no longer causing more damage to the lawn and spraying the deadly chemicals is only killing the grubs predators and polluting the environment. The lawn will recover from a grub attack but if you don't want to put up with lawn looking rough for a few weeks then you can spray some neem oil on the grass. Neem oil won't kill the grubs or the predators but will stop the grubs from eating.
How do I water my lawn?
When establishing a new lawn you need to water as quickly as you can after laying the turf. It then needs to be watered daily for about ten days until the roots are into the soil. Once the grass is attached to the ground, water once a week for the next four weeks. Now that you have an established lawn you will only need to water occasionally but deeply. How often will depend on the rainfall and the type of grass you have. At most once a week in summer and once a month in winter.